In the best way, some artworks challenge you more than others. Spectral Shift began with a question: What would happen if lace changed with the light? The journey to answer the question led me to technical problem-solving and material discovery.
This piece is the product of ideas, tests, and sampling. It was all to reach the goal of making lace that appears and disappears, depending on the light.
UV-Reactive Fishing Line as Inspiration
I’ve used clear fishing line in my lace before, appreciating the nearly clear transparency it brings. When I stumbled across a blacklight reactive version of fishing line, I knew I had to try it out. Unlike fluorescent monofilaments, which are always visibly bright, the UV-reactive line I wanted was clear under regular light, and glowed with ultraviolet light.
Just like most of my unconventional materials, there was a catch. My first attempt used a 14 lb monofilament, which was too stiff to create bobbin lace. After hanging all the bobbins onto the pattern, I had to undo the whole thing. That experience forced me to research the world of fishing line.
I had unknowingly been using fluorocarbon fishing line for previous projects, which turned out to be an ideally pliable fiber. Finding a UV-reactive version with the same qualities was difficult. After talking to many fishing/tackle shops, I discovered a copolymer fishing line that checked all my boxes. It was clear, but reactive under blacklight, and flexible enough for lace.
Making the Lace
Once I had the right fiber, the lacemaking could begin. From the start, the experience felt surreal. In regular lighting, the threads were nearly invisible, but under blacklight, the design is revealed. As someone who has worked with only the clear thread before, it is so helpful to turn on the blacklight and actually see the lace.
The lace design is geometric and symmetrical, as is most of my work. Thick cloth stitch trails make diamonds that move down the lace. Inside the diamond trails are different types of spiders (cloth, half, and whole stitch). Surrounding the central pattern is a basic torchon ground.
Progress photos show the contrast between white light and blacklight as I complete the lace.
Light as a Design Element
For this piece, light is a major part of the design. I helped install white and ultraviolet LEDs inside the shadowbox, powered by a microcontroller that cycles the lights. The cycle begins with no light at all, so you can see the artwork in the room’s ambient light. Then, the light turns white, off again, UV light, and starts the cycle over again. The lace is quite visible in the white light, which is surprising. In blacklight, the lace is fully visible and glows a bright blue color.
The shift of light is subtle but powerful, and very effective at catching your eye and imagination.
The Frame and Final Form
Once the lace was complete, I laid a wooden frame around the lace, with holes drilled to mimic the outer pinholes. I stitched the lace onto a wooden frame with regular fishing line. So, under the white light you can see the lace and connections, but with blacklight, the lace seems to float in the shadowbox. The frame was fitted into the shadowbox, and all the wiring attached.
Seeing the final version framed, and glowing was amazing! I was so excited that my vision of light revealed lace worked.
What Comes Next
Spectral Shift pushed me to explore new materials, new challenges, and a unique way to display/encounter lace. I learned more about fishing line than I ever thought I would, and I’m excited by how light and tech can come together with lace.
Want to see where I take the exploration of lace next? Check out my Instagram (@BobbinLaceNet) and TikTok (@CajahYupMe) accounts for process videos and behind-the-scenes updates!
