Establishing the pattern
Before committing to the final material, I always test a new pattern using familiar threads. As usual, I used Gutermann silk to work through my latest design: Spectral Shift. This sampler gave me a chance to ensure the shapes, tension, and flow will work the way I want. This design follows my “comfort aesthetic” of geometric, symmetrical appearance.
Even though this version was only a test, I fell in love with the feel of the design. Thick cloth stitch trails form diamonds moving down the lace. Within the diamond shapes, I added spiders (whole, half, and cloth stitch) and a half-stitch ground for openness. Outside the cloth stitch trail, I used a thin half stitch trail, echoing the central forms. A Torchon ground takes up the rest of the design that fades into the background of the other elements.
Silk as a Stand-In
Silk is one of my favorite test materials because it’s smooth, a little shiny, and easy to work with. I am so used to the fiber, I can clearly see how each technique behaves without having to fight with the material. The fiber struggle often comes with the final design, since I use alternate fibers. With this sampler, I knew I would eventually replace the silk with an unconventional material, but I first needed to ensure the pattern was correct.
The thick trails in this design are especially important to get right. Since the trails dominate the pattern, I needed to ensure their path worked well without crowding all the other elements. Thankfully, the fiber and design worked very well.
Spiders and Trails
The variety of spider stitches in this design gave me a lot to work with. I tried to place the spiders intentionally to highlight the technique, but also to balance the thick trails. Each spider has a slightly different feel. Cloth stitch spiders make the thread appear dense, while half-stitch spiders add more lightness. Of course, whole-stitch spiders are somewhere in-between.
The diamond trails are the true backbone of this piece. They define the geometry and guide the eye. While I worked, I noticed how they almost lifted off the surface, creating a subtle 3D effect. I am excited to see how that works out in the final artwork, knowing the fiber will also create a unique effect.
In Progress
The early stages of the sampler were all about getting all 120 bobbins hung on the pattern. Next was just working the design until I was used to the stitch paths. By the time I reached the halfway point, I could already tell the design was perfect. The balance of dense and open areas felt right, and the trail shapes were exactly what I hoped for.
Once I finally reached the last section, I slowed down to enjoy the process. Watching the diamonds form, and seeing the design emerge past the pins, was incredibly satisfying.
Looking Ahead
This sampler confirmed the pattern is ready for the next step. I’ll now create the final version of Spectral Shift using an alternate material. I’m excited to see how this design transforms once I shift from silk to something more unexpected. The foundation is sound, and now it’s time to experiment with the fibers.
Want to follow along with my lace experiments? Be sure to check out my Instagram (@BobbinLaceNet) and TikTok (@CajahYupMe) for process videos and behind-the-scenes updates!
